Posted by eemilla on October 25, 2009
Thanks to Nicole at Forthright Fattie for the Honest Scrap Award. Here are my ten unknown to the internet world facts:
1. I participated in Mock Trial in high school, but I am no good at off the cuff so my attorney dreams died.
2. Even though I’m all about reducing emissions, I love to drive fast, and I want to be able to drive fast around curves without worrying about sharing the road.
3. I always thought I would die before I turned 27.
4. Until I started sleeping with my husband, I had never used the snooze button.
5. My first car, Tilly, was in Patch Adams. They used it for two or three weeks, and I got $800. My parents and I purchased the car for $900.
6. Over Thanksgiving break traveling through SC on 85, I received two speeding tickets (one on the way home and the other on the way back).
7. I love dystopian novels and movies (The Handmaid’s Tale, 1984, Brave New World, V for Vendetta).
8. If I weren’t so cheap, I would have a coffee habit.
9. The traffic in Atlanta drove me to smoke the entire time I (kinda) lived there.
10. Although I’ve never really lived anywhere aside from AVL (even when I lived in the ATL, I was back home about once a month) and it feels so much like home, I think anywhere that my honey and kitties and doggy and good food are could be home.
If you’re so inclined, leave a link in the comments with your ten unknowns.
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Posted by eemilla on October 20, 2009
Our last day in San Francisco, we awoke to fog. The weather punished me for being so grumpy on Sunday morning and not riding across the Golden Gate Bridge. My wonderful husband optimistically suggested that we run up Telegraph Hill to Coit Tower so we could we get a good view and see if the fog might lift so we could ride across the bridge. Rather than head down to Union Square, we walked up Leavenworth a few blocks then over to Hyde where we caught the cable car and rode it to the waterfront. We got to ride past Lombard, but we opted not to walk down it. We tried to catch a bus up Telegraph Hill, but much like the rest of our trip we failed to note where we to catch the bus and which number so we hoofed it. Unlike the forced march down the Embarcadero, the chilly weather was in our favor.

From Coit Tower, our chances didn’t look good for biking across the bridge. We took the Greenwich Steps down, and although the picture I took at the top of stairs looks lush, the Filbert Steps have much better scenery.


We meandered around trying to decide what to do in lieu of our bike trek. Ina Coolbrith Park and Macondary Lane and the Octagon houses were on my wish list so we set off for Ina Coolbrith based on my shorthand notes but without the benefit of a map (no free wi-fi!). We ended up finding Macondary Lane and walking through it, and then realizing that we had missed the park by a block. The park has nice views, but for the hike I preferred Buena Vista. After walking in circles to find the park, I forgot about the Octagon houses that were only blocks away (although most likely steep uphill blocks away) so we caught the cable car that runs on Mason and took it back to home base for much deserved shower.
On our last San Francisco night we dined at Le Colonial; it is a very lovely Michelin starred restaurant with elegant decor. Of course we were underdressed, but our server didn’t seem to mind. He did, however, seemed determined to sell us the most expensive items on the menu even though we did not request his opinion. Our entire meal was delicious and eclipsed by the superiority of The Slanted Door. I enjoyed an ahi tuna tartare with taro chips for my appetizer and spring roll dish that I was instructed to eat like the bánh xéo from earlier in the week. Le Colonial provided the best service of any of the restaurants we dined at, and their food was good (if not divine).

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Posted by eemilla on October 19, 2009
Our Sunday was a could’ve, should’ve day. First we slept in a bit later than we should’ve, second we could’ve gotten bagels for breakfast the night before. We strolled down to Union Square to catch a bus to the Fisherman’s Wharf where we going to rent bikes to ride through the Presidio and across the Golden Gate Bridge down into Sausalito to enjoy a mid afternoon lunch and catch the ferry back; however, it was my lack of food and general bitchiness that threw a wrench into our plans this time. I think I was worried about whether my out of shape body would be able to bike the few miles. So instead we walked down the Embarcadero in the blazing sun and against the flow of pedestrian traffic away from the gapping tourist trap of Fisherman’s Wharf. At the Ferry Building, things suddenly looked much brighter (figuratively as I don’t think it could’ve gotten much brighter literally).

The Slanted Door beckoned our empty bellies, but the thirty minute wait directed us to the bar. I began with a kir royale to quench my thirst, and my husband went with an unfamiliar wheat beer. Our seat at the bar was directly in front of the raw prep station so we both ordered a half dozen raw oysters; I opted for West Coast options which were all quite delicious, and my husband ordered the plate as is and also enjoyed it thoroughly. With our fortune at the raw bar, we decided to share a live scallop; it was absolutely heavenly with its fresh creamy saltiness. If I could regularly eat raw animal this tasty, I would never dream of giving up flesh. Following with the Bay Area obsession, my next drink was Summer on the Danube which consisted of sparkling wine and elderberry liqueur; I do now love elderberry liqueur. For my next dish I moved to the hot side and ordered the bánh xèo (Vietnamese egg crepe); the food runner was kind enough to tell me how it is normally eaten as I most likely would’ve skipped the leaf lettuce completely which would have greatly taken away from the dish. The crepe is sliced then wrapped in the leaf lettuce then dipped in the sauce then eaten. All of the flavors came together to make this dish my favorite from the trip, from the slight bitterness of the lettuce to the earthiness of the mung bean sprouts to the clean crispness of the mint and basil leaves to the sweet, spicy ginger of the dipping sauce to the greasiness of the cooked crispy egg. I have not stopped craving this, even after I attempted to make a vegan alternative that was less than awesome. The ginger pushed me into a dark and stormy, which is a drink that has sentimental value; I first enjoyed it the week before we married in Key West, and this trip to our friends’ wedding doubled as a big three (legal) years anniversary celebration for us (albeit a couple of weeks before the actual date). This version is the epitome of a dark and stormy. Their house made ginger syrup is the secret; it has such a powerful ginger punch that cuts through and combines with the sweetness of the dark rum and the soda to make bliss in a cup. After the dark and stormy and the egg crepe, my tofu entree was good, but I really only remember the exotic sweetness of the lemongrass. Our service was slow with many long moments of trying to get our bartender/server’s attention to order the next drink or dish or get the check; however, the food was wonderful.

We slowly strolled out of the Ferry Building into the bright sunshine and decided since we were in the Financial District we might as well hit the SFMoMA. Much like the MoMA, the SFMoMA was overwhelming at times. I enjoyed many of the pieces, but others annoyed me. One piece was a short Airstream style travel trailer; another was a colorful painting that I initially liked, so I read the placard for it to discover the protrusion was a piece of elephant dung. The photography exhibits were the highlight and made the admission (twenty dollars including the five dollar surcharge for the Richard Avedon exhibit) worth it. Unlike many museums, the SFMoMA allows non flash photography.




Exhausted from all the walking and alcohol, we walked through the Yerba Buena Gardens but decided to skip through it. We caught the F line back to the Embarcadero so I could check out the Diego Rivera murals in the Rincon Center (another example of us backtracking). We then rode the California car up to Nob Hill so we could see the Fountain of the Turtles and Grace Cathedral. The cathedral was amazing and humbling; I respect churches that spend all their money on doing good works, but I love and cherish the magnificent buildings that religious congregations build. I took photos of the doors called The Gates of Paradise, but I felt disrespectful taking photos of the interior.



After the cathedral, we returned to the apartment for a refreshing 7 and ginger and showers. For dinner we decided that nothing could possibly top our lunch plus we were reeling from the cost; Uncle Vito’s on Powell St seemed like a good place for cheap eats. Cheap they were, but even so the service and food left much to be desired. The service I can forgive, because it was cheap. The food, however, was bland, boring, and not even worth repeating. If ever in San Francisco, avoid Uncle Vito’s.
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Posted by eemilla on October 17, 2009
On Wednesday, my honey dubbed me Drill Sergeant because I was determined to take in as much of the city as we could during our week stay (with days eaten by travel, wedding events, and weather) so before we had to get ready for the 40 minute BART ride to Pleasant Hill, we checked out Union Square and Chinatown. My favorite part about San Francisco’s and Vancouver’s Chinatowns were the gates and the bilingual street signs (although Vancouver has a better gate). I also loved how CitiBank and Bank of America gussied up their buildings (the Bank of America we drove past in the Castro actually had rainbow flags hanging in the lobby). For his lunch and dim sum fix, my honey ate at the Four Seas; I did not partake as I was not yet hungry, but the service was abysmal. Although we arrived at lunch, he only saw two dim sum trays before our time constraints required us to leave. After several minutes of being by passed I gave my credit card to the hostess which she delivered to the wait staff; we waited another several minutes for someone to appear with the receipt. A lady we had not seen arrived with our check, but rather than drop it she hovered over our table while my husband completed it.



After all the waiting and watching him eat, I realized that I might not be eating for several hours (depending on the wedding reception fare) so we wondered around Chinatown making our way back to North Beach, but Italian wasn’t calling my name. Somehow (I cannot be trusted to navigate), we missed Portsmouth Square but (walked several blocks north and out of the way and) found Washington Square and St Peter and St Paul Church so we caught a bus back down Columbus where I did take this neato shoot of Cafe Zoetrope and the TransAmerica Pyramid.

Heading back to the apartment, we caught the California car that led us to the Top of the Mark which we had missed on our previous day’s itinerary as a drink spot. I am glad we visited during the day as my honey took some gorgeous photographs of the city. I enjoyed a lovely fourteen dollar Valley salad (baby spinach, grilled endive, Point Reyes Bleu, tomatoes, and candied walnuts) along with my fourteen dollar a glass pinot noir. I must say that the salad was delicious with a surprisingly generous portion, and my pinot noir was rather tasty (Gloria Ferrar). I decided to forgo the $23 a glass Moet White Star (please note this bottle retails for around $60), but I did understand that I was paying for the breath taking views not whatever was being served. In fact our server assumed we just wanted to take the pretty pictures as he brought us our drinks and the check before I had a chance to order lunch.



After such delightful daytime views, I insisted we return for evening views. Unfortunately, the loudest New Englanders imaginable sat one table away recalling their days of drunken debauchery; however, I did get to sample a 12 year old Jameson pour with my molten chocolate cake. The pour wasn’t as enjoyable as I wanted (it was more like scotch than my beloved Jameson), and the cake was dry and missing the super chocolate divinity of the last molten cake I enjoyed (thanks Rezaz). My honey did enjoy his $13 Mojito more than his $10 chardonnay from our previous visit.

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Posted by eemilla on October 16, 2009
Friday left me unexpectedly flying solo due to a change in the pre wedding events. Being the shirking violet that I am, I decided to stick to familiar territory. I caught MUNI 71 to the Haight in order to capture my super touristy Haight-Ashbury photo and get my mom “something hippy” (this was her verbatim request). Although I arrived three hours later than our first outing, I still could not bring myself to photograph the sign nor could I purchase something hippy for my mom since it all seemed like shit I could I easily and cheaply get in Asheville. However, I did hit the Conservatory of Flowers that we had skipped on Wednesday due to our need for food. It was pretty much the same as visiting the Biltmore Estate’s conservatory, albeit for much less money (five dollar admission). They had orchids galore as well as a number of pitcher plants, but in the final wing, I was so hot that I cut my tour short.






I walked through the Haight to the much under rated (at least in the travel books I read) Buena Vista Park. The climb is steep (very San Francisco) and shady, but the views are well worth it. I did not arrive early enough to catch the bridge before the fog rolled in, but I still snagged some awesome city views with the bridge peeking out. All of the parks make Asheville and the National Parks Service seem so draconian; none of the handful of parks we visited required dogs to be leased in all areas (and I’m not talking about a fenced-in mud pit either). I then proceeded to get lost in my attempt to enjoy an afternoon tea at Samovar Tea Lounge; I knew the Haight-Noriega bus drove right by it on Wednesday after our Golden Gate Park outing, but I could not recall the address (and I repeatedly failed to write it down or take down a phone number). So I ended up riding right past it, then waiting for the next outbound 71 (they were only fifteen minutes apart) and getting off a stop too early then walking a few blocks around and finally arriving for my afternoon tea sweaty with my windblown hair giving me a crazy lady look. The service was slow; I found my own menu on the counter while the staff discussed their weekend plans (at the end of my meal I left my table for the bar to get the check). I did enjoy the nice spring mix salad with the veggie quiche; the fruit plate was disappointing with bland figs, strawberries, and melon. The scone was delightful, even without the clotted cream and jam. I also enjoyed the black tea plain, with sugar, with milk, and with sugar and milk; I’ve been craving a scone and tea every afternoon since we returned!


After taming my hair and showering, my honey and I strolled down to his must eat restaurant, Millennium. We arrived at their door thirty minutes early, so we decided to have a cocktail at the Grand Cafe (same name as the place we held our wedding luncheon in Key West and where I enjoyed my first dark and stormy). Elderberry liqueur appeared on seemingly every cocktail menu in the city so I decided to enjoy a nice aperitif of sparkling wine and the liqueur de rigueur. I repeated this selection a few times, and I enjoyed it equally at each stop. The bar was busy, and as such our service reflected it; the menu looked pricey but interesting, and the interior was grand with its pretty wood and high ceilings. The dining room proper was elevated from the bar area so it probably afforded a much lovelier atmosphere for a date; the bar area had tables squeezed in wherever they could which was fine for our pre dinner drink.
Millennium is a high end vegan restaurant. Much to my initial dismay the entire table had to participate in the tasting menu which my husband was set on; however, it all worked out for a delicious dining experience. Our first course was a trio of ceviche, and unfortunately, I cannot recall anything other than it was delightful and left me eagerly awaiting the upcoming courses. Although I didn’t recognize it, the menu lists hearts of palm, but how can a sustainable restaurant serve hearts of palm? The second course was poori, and again my memory fails other than my disappointment at the serving size. The main course was the best; I had a tamale stuffed with scrumptious chanterelle mushrooms, edamame, and jasmine rice (the menu also mentions nectarines but I don’t see how I would have forgotten my favorite fruit). He enjoyed the fingerling potato roulade, and while pototoes that aren’t deep fried aren’t generally my cup of tea (I do make an exception for the Noodle Shop’s slivered and vinegared potatoes amuse bouche) I almost wanted to switch plates with him. The potatoes were cooked perfectly and seasoned divinely; again, I have been craving them ever since. My adulation of the main course has washed all traces of the dessert from my memory, but my honey said he was shocked at the massive chunk of cake (he also said he really enjoyed it). Millennium was to be our splurge dinner (although all of our meals were pretty pricey), and it was disappointing that their layout has their two tops crammed together with one person sitting on a banquet and the other facing in a chair. About mid-way through our entrees, the other two tables had left so we were finally able to enjoy each other’s conversation without having to drown out the neighboring conversations. Our server was busy with a larger table and a busy section to really bother with our meager little two top, but the buser attended to our drinks and prompt plate removal. While taking our drink order, she seemed annoyed to have to explain the difference between “sustainable” and “biodynamic” wines; maybe she expected me to know, but neither term has a legal definition so the onus is on those using the term to define it. However, snotty server or not, the food was great, and I would certainly return.

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Posted by eemilla on October 14, 2009
Thursday forced us to split up for pre-wedding events; the boys went golfing at Lincoln Park (the fog killed all Golden Gate Bridge photo ops), and the ladies were driven around by a lovely designated driver of a bridesmaid to three Dry Creek Valley wineries followed by a truncated Muir Woods visit (we arrived so late thanks to the congestion we didn’t even have to pay the $5 admission). Our first winery was Dry Creek Vineyard; this was my first wine tasting (thanks Biltmore for being so understaffed and overcrowded!) Unfortunately, we did have to pay at each winery (unless you purchased a bottle or more), but at Dry Creek we were able to choose which wines we wanted to sample. I ended up buying a bottle of their chenin blanc at a grocery store, and at 12.50 I think it’s a nice little bottle. Our next stop was a short walk across the street at Passalacqua; it reminded me of Biltmore: the grounds were much better than the wine. Our final stop was Forchini, and it combined a lovely tasting area with pleasant wines. The tasting room was closed when we pulled up, but by the time our awesome driver got the fifteen passenger van turned around in the small driveway, we were flagged down by (who I assume was) Jim Forchini. We ate our picnic lunches on his shaded patio, and Jim poured us several glasses of his wines. With all of the wines he gave what sounded like detailed discussions of the wine making. I really enjoyed the chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and reserve zinfandel; much to my surprise I preferred the cab to his Chianti styled Papa Nonno. I thought it was cool that the Forchini wines are estate bottled, and they sell their chardonnay grapes to Sonoma-Cutrer (my overpriced chardonnay of choice). On our return trip we drove over the Golden Gate Bridge, but the fog was so thick that even driving over the bridge, one would have been hard pressed to identify it.
After wine country and Muir Woods, the ladies joined the boys at a dive bar briefly before we adjourned to our twenty top dinner reservation at a sushi restaurant in the Noe Valley, Hamano Sushi. Of course in classic cliched fashion the boys failed to communicate our dinner reservervations so all twenty of us crowded the tiny doorway to wait for the restaurant to find a solution. The restaurant threw together several tables with room for most of our party, but the North Carolina contingent ate apart in lieu of being crammed beside the stairs. The sushi was much cheaper than in North Carolina according to my darling husband (however, we spent more than we would have at a normal sushi outing), but I cannot say that the quality was significantly better. The selection of nigiri, however, was another plus: I had my first toro. Of course my first encounter comes as my love of sushi and flesh in general is waning; therefore, I will not be reviewing Hamano other than to say they did a wonderful job of handling our mob.
After our long days and not really knowing which buses to take, we took our second cab ride of the trip home.
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Posted by eemilla on October 10, 2009
Our awesome neighbors got married at the bride’s parent’s home outside of San Francisco two weeks ago, and we were fortunate enough to be able to witness it. We took advantage of the opportunity to enjoy the city by the bay. Many of the guests stayed close to the wedding site, but we rented an apartment in Nob Hill which was furnished with the best, most fantabulous mattress I’ve ever had the privilege to sleep on. We couldn’t see any famous buildings, but there is a view of Twin Peaks and a tiny view of the bay on clear days. The entire apartment was filled with light from the windows, and a massive palm tree provided a bit of privacy in the front room. The building is only four floors so I mostly climbed the stairs while my honey mostly took the old fashioned elevator (the door with its separate gate were manual).
I’ve decided to serialize my trip since I’ve been trying for over a week to finish one loooonnng post, so stay tuned for plenty of amateur photos and restaurant reviews along with my opinions on other things related to the trip!
Posted in fun | Tagged: fun, marriage, travel | 1 Comment »